Metals we use

We use exclusively 5% Ruthenium Platinum and 18K Gold

We work with all colors of gold as long as it is 18 karats or European 750. The 18K white, yellow, and rose gold is the only alloy suitable for fine jewelry production. The majority of our work is done in platinum – the only real precious white metal. We can use palladium, sterling silver, or non-precious metals on occasion. 



One of the most desirable noble metals globally, platinum is the best choice for bespoke jewelry, especially engagement rings. Platinum has earned high marks from the Royal Society of Chemists for its unmatched properties, such as its strength, resilience, rarity, and value.

Platinum’s naturally white color, which does not corrode or darken, is responsible for its elevated status among jewelers and consumers. Platinum’s cool white sheen is perfect for accentuating the sparkle of diamonds. Platinum doesn’t cause any color reflections in the stone.

Platinum weight is not a factor for hand-forged earrings, necklaces, pendants, and bracelets. Skilled jewelers use thinner metal, smaller gauge wire, and various techniques like adjourning to turn platinum pieces that are light and airy. On the other hand, platinum’s high density is detrimental for pieces made by casting. CAD/CAM jewelry is chunky and heavy because casting very thin parts is not practical.

At Leon Mege, we only use platinum consisting of 95.5 parts pure platinum and 4.5 parts ruthenium. A tiny amount of ruthenium cures pure platinum and improves its hardness and density.

Ruthenium is a platinum group metal. Ruthenium platinum is the only alloy suitable for hand forging. We do NOT use 10% iridium alloy, which is inferior to ruthenium and is mainly used for mass fabrication by casting.


All of our platinum jewelry is stamped with Pt950 hallmark according to FTC guidelines. For gold purity, Leon Mege jewelry is stamped 750, Au750, or 18K. Platinum is the original precious white metal.

Platinum jewelry has a solid feel that is impossible to achieve with white gold. White gold was developed as a platinum substitute during WWII. It is a poor woman’s platinum.


Yellow gold

Fine jewelry is exclusively made of 18K gold. There are many shades of gold – yellow, green, pink (rose), and white. 

Every gold alloy we use is proprietary, field-tested, and guaranteed to satisfy any strict quality requirements, as well as FTC standards for jewelry metals. All Leon Mege gold alloys are guaranteed to pass the European Nickel Release test, which means that they will not cause skin allergies. 

Gold, in its natural color, has long been the traditional metal of choice for jewelry because it doesn’t rust, tarnish or corrode. At Leon Mege, we exclusively use 3N*yellow gold alloy manufactured in Italy. The alloy produces rich, vivid-yellow gold color.

leon_mege_white_gold_color_bar_illustration.jpgWhite gold

White gold requires periodic plating to maintain its look; it is only 75% pure compared to platinum’s 95%. Unlike platinum, which is self-burnishing, white gold is continuously shedding its top layer. And unlike some white gold alloys, platinum never contains nickel.


Rose gold

Rose or Pink Gold fairly recently surged in popularity as more and more people embrace its charming look with a hint of vintage grace. Traditionally, in some countries, such as Russia, pink rather than yellow, it is viewed as a natural gold color.


Gold and platinum prices flipped almost a decade ago, and gold remains significantly more expensive than platinum. Currently, the same amount of money buys twice as much platinum as gold. Platinum’s low price is a fantastic buying opportunity considering that platinum is 30 times more scarce than gold.

Here are the ten reasons why platinum is better than white gold. Platinum is easier to work with than gold. The cost of labor, which is the main part of the fabrication cost, is lower, making hand-forged platinum jewelry surprisingly affordable. 

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