Necklaces

Chain vs. Necklace

A necklace is set with gemstones, while chains are just metal. There is a grey area; for example, Elisa Peretti’s Diamonds By The Yard can be classified as a “chain” or a “necklace.”

There are many types of necklaces:

Choker is a short necklace resting on the collarbone
Sautoir – very long necklace
Riviera is a single strand of diamonds of either equal size or graduating down in size towards the back
Festoon is a garland of flowers, ribbons, or leafs hung in a curve as a decorative element
Fringe has a series of pendant elements that dangle from links or cords
Collier or Collar necklaces are typically 12 to 13 inches long, laying flat on the body
A pendant is a necklace or a chain with a jewel or medallion dropped from the center
Lavalier or Negligee is a small-link, fairly long necklace terminating in a single large pendant or tassel
Lariat necklaces don’t have a clasp. They either tied or pulled through an opening on the other end
Bib or Plastron
Opera is typically around 26 to 36 inches long
Matinée is approximately 20 to 22 inches long
Princess is typically 18 inches long
The rope is over 30 inches long

Necklace length

The Choker is 14-16” and sits snug around the neck.
Princess is 16-18” long, falling to the mid-chest. Princess length is the preferred length for a pendant.
Matinee extends to 20-22” in length.
Opera drapes dramatically at 24-28”.
The Rope or Lariat extends over 30”, covering the abdomen. As a double wrap, one turn is a choker, and the other is the Opera.

Diamonds-by-the-Yard: a chain or a necklace?

A string of small round diamonds wrapped in a channel wire and inserted at repeated intervals into a thin chain was popularized by Tiffany’s Elsa Peretti, who claimed the invention.

Necklace and chain clasps and closures

Hook-and-Eye or S-Hook is the easiest and least secure clasp made of a hook that slips into an opening to keep the chain in place.
Lobster Clasp is the most desirable and secure carabiner-style lock with a spring-loaded gate that snaps back in place once the cap end is inserted. It is opened by simply pulling a small lever that lifts the lip allowing the cap end to be released.
Spring Ring is a simple, lightweight clasp made from a hollow tube with a spring inside. Pulling the lever opens the slot for a cap end to be inserted. Once the lever is released, the clasp locks the cap end.
The alligator clasp is used as a traditional lock or as a clip for accessories. It features a large loop suitable for multi-strand designs, large cords, or leather strings.
Ball-and-Joint clasps use pressure to keep the clasps closed. Their easy-open and easy-close design are too flimsy for expensive necklaces, so they are used mainly for lightweight chains.
The Fishhook clasp has a fishhook-shaped tongue threaded inside a box where it clicks in place. Ideal for lightweight necklaces and bracelets.